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Domaine de L’Ecu

The process of discovery in the Loire will without doubt vary from one person to the next, but my personal wine history begins with Sancerre, followed by the red wines of Saumur, Chinon and Bourgueil and the other appellations of the central vineyards. Later came Vouvray, and perhaps a rediscovery of Saumur, as I realised not only just how delicious these wines can be in warmer weather, but also that there are a few really top-drawer domaines turning out world class wines, such as Clos Rougeard and Château de Villeneuve. Muscadet also came later, and for many years I held the mistaken view that this appellation provided only simple, painfully rustic wines which were of no structure or substance; an appellation where you should always drink the youngest available, usually without any undue fuss. This is of course a view of which I have long since disavowed myself. Muscadet is a source of some brilliant wines; the best examples can be structured and racy, they partner many foods superbly, and they can perform brilliantly in the cellar. There are a number of domaines vying for top spot in the appellation. For many years Domaine de l’Ecu was one of these domaines.

Today the long-term proprietor Guy Bossard, a doyen of biodynamics within Muscadet, is gradually releasing his hold on the domaine. The arrival of an associate, Frédéric Niger, who stepped up to the plate when it became apparent none of Guy’s offspring were interested in taking on the running of the domaine, was the beginning of this process. With Fred’s arrival there also came some dramatic and sweeping changes. Before we come to this turning point in the domaine’s history, however, we should first look back at Guy Bossard’s story.

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Domaine de L’Ecu